The Sierra from Bloody Mountain: it is a young winter, and it is beautiful

Living in an area where everyone else travels to spend their vacation can be a double edged sword many times. A negative aspect is that one is prone to taking for granted how good life can be where you live, and the Eastern Sierra is not immune to this. With unsettled weather moving over the Sierra, it limits the opportunities available for recreation: Is the snow stable enough? The right consistency? Is it warm/cold/sunny/dry enough to engage in other activities, etc., etc. The fact that out our front doors we can go for a walk, ride a bike or even drive a car to a favorite reading locale in one of the most beautiful areas of the country can get lost in a selfish pursuit of personal objectives or an agenda of predetermined activities.

Cragging in a tee shirt, in December. Not bad.

There is a silver lining to this cloud of inherent geographical selfishness: when things conspire against your primary desires, it only sharpens how good the experience can be once the opportunity returns. Since returning from fall travels, the Sierra’s alpine environs have been in the grey area of not summer, and not quite winter. That means rock routes will be cold enough where much of the enjoyment of climbing them would be lost in keeping warm and safe, and short days and snowy approaches call for greater commitment. That doesn’t stop a lot of passionate members of the outdoor community – and for others it merely highlights the need to change the activity of choice or embrace the commitment.

Chasing 5 star sport routes: a fun way to change things up

Activities were structured the last week to welcome dawn patrols and gorge season. It’s easy to forget that one of California’s premier sport climbing crags is just down the road, how one can have a civil wakeup hour, and after a short drive on one of America’s most scenic roads be clipping safe bolts and anchors on very enjoyable steep, volcanic tuff…in your tee shirt…in December. Couple that with being surrounded with great people who are eager to get stronger while enjoying each other’s company, and the recipe is there for a great day…all the time.

"It's like outdoor gym climbing"

There are nearly 700 named routes in the ORG guidebook, and more every year. Heck, many routes are highly rated trad climbs, so bring a rack down to mix things up. Bottom line is to have that outlet for strength training and outdoor activity at any time of the year is quite an asset, and not to be overlooked, nor should the effort expended by the many people over the years to make that area available to everyone, to make it safe and enjoyable for all to recreate. Thank you.

Sure the ORG isn’t the most spectacular place, but its views are quite beautiful themselves, and waiting patiently for your return from the depths for a post-climb beer at the car is a panoramic vista of the frosty Sierra, providing another visual reminder of how lucky we are. Every trip down to the ORG I’m meeting climbers making the commute from San Francisco, LA, San Diego, Reno, you name it. If it’s sunny anywhere in California, chances are high it is in the ORG, and it’s fun, and it’s in your back yard.

As yes, 'tis the season for...Sastrugi? How are those early season conditions again?

Alas, as John Muir penned, “…the mountains are calling.” Though belaying from a comfy bench in the California sun is delightful, being able to get up into the higher mountains - at times - has become almost as necessary as eating and sleeping, sometimes regardless of weather or conditions. After a couple of laps in the Sierra backcountry last week, conditions in areas were questionable, but more and more reports were coming in with the annual early season advice: “If you’re hungry for it, and get out to the right places, the goods are there.” With some most timely advice from locals, the sights were set on Bloody Mountain’s Bloody Couloir.

It looks like it just might go

It was a late start and because we’re nearing the winter solstice, that meant movement would be constant throughout the day, and time splits would be required. With sun setting between 1630 and 1700, that meant turn around at 1400, with a little margin barring conditions and situations. I’m not terribly proud that I didn’t have a partner for a backcountry ski outing, but since I had done the approach before, knew the fastest, safest and best way for ascent and decent with cell coverage throughout the day, I deemed the risks of being alone manageable. Further, with conditions in the couloir being relatively unknown, extra caution would be exercised, and no regrets would be had if safety was at all in question and a retreat necessary.

With nothing but Dostoyevski, a playlist full of goodies and my own thoughts for accompaniment, I left the turbo at the intersection of Sherwin Creek Road and Laural Lakes OHV trail at 0930. Miles were covered briskly as the cool morning air kept temps in the sun civil and ripe discussions of the sensual Karamozov men rang in my ears. An hour in brought a switch from approach shoes to AT boots. The OHV road leading virtually to the middle of Bloody Couloir was a mix of snow and dirt, so that meant after switching to boots, I was constantly swapping between skinning and walking. No matter, before I knew it, the road was switching back, and slopes held snow consistently. I was in the base of the couloir, risers on high by noon.

Risers on high at high noon: it's looking better

Next came the crux: would the conditions be safe for a solo ascent and descent? As I continued so gain elevation, it was apparent there was a firm and stable base, with a delightful dusting on top ranging from a few centimeters, to boot deep…this could be good. As the heart rate climbed, it was time to switch from literature to music, and from skins to boot pack. The rhythm of punching steps and sticking poles made the vertical pass by, and the calories evaporate. Had to stop for nutrition half way up.

It is stable, and it is good...really good

The couloir is split in the middle by a deceptively large rock buttress, and having chosen the looker’s-left path the last time, I made my way up looker’s right. For safety sake, unless there was ample evidence to the contrary, I would be coming down what I went up. Consistently checking the snowpack, with each segment of boot pack it was becoming readily apparent that not only was the snow stable, but the dust on top was getting deeper – not deep enough, or slabbily unstable enough to slide, but great to climb and an absolute dream to descend.

Being the first time above 11k and the longest day in a while, I stopped a few times to catch a breath and take a photo, and before long, I was at the steep roll over. Without my inclinometer I would pin it at ~45 degrees right now – enough where I was ascending on all fours, digging in the whippet less for safety but for balance and efficiency of movement. Still checking the safety of the snow pack, even at the roll over there were no signs of unstable layers or facets to cause anxiety…the summit would be feasible, and fun.

When the Going gets steep, put it in four low

Another few steps and Eureka! – sunshine and the col at the top. I dropped the skis, scampered to the summit and checked the time: 1345. Plenty of minutes to soak in the sun, absorb the beauty offered by the Bloody summit, and take in some calories and hydration. Through the beats on the ascent, there was an echo that this type of day was much needed: constant movement, an objective, and the humbling presence of the mountains. Sitting on top, sheltered by the wind, showered in cloudless sun and surrounded by the stunning, dusty white Sierra, never were the day’s decisions more vindicated…until I strapped in and enjoyed ~2300 vert of cold dust glory.

In the middle of a hero snow descent off a 3800m peak: stop, breath, and reflect on how lucky I am

Yes, only the very top had the breakable crust seen elsewhere in my BC travels the previous week, and after the first few feet, it was stable snow on top of a firm base. I didn’t even hit any land sharks on the way down. The turns were so good, I was a bit disgruntled I didn’t start earlier to afford the opportunity for a second lap. After all, the boot pack was in, and the other side of the couloir was probably just as good. Oh well…next time. At the bottom, looking up, I could do nothing but stare and smile.

Not a single bad turn in the entire thing

Returning to the Laurel lakes road, it was back to the on-again, off-again skis as I picked my way back down to my approach shoes, stopping periodically to look back at the line with a grin and a deep sense of satisfaction. By 1600 I was out of ski boots and scampering down the rest of the road to the turbo, and eating snacks in the drivers seat by 1630.

If only there was more daylight for a second lap...

All told, it’s been a great week to stop and think how lucky it means to be in the Sierra: a few dawn patrols, humbling whippers in the gorge and solid rest made the appetite for the mountains this weekend as ravenous as ever. That outdoor hors d'oeuvre made the return to Bloody and the higher mountains on fantastic conditions that much more poignant and unforgettable, and just whets the appetite for more winter splendor. Heck, I haven't even swung the nomics yet this year.

With holiday travel looming on the horizon, and with this backcountry deliciousness lingering, I have a renewed confidence this will be a great winter, and I'll be sure to appreciate whatever the weather brings in this ice-stone-and-snow shangri-la.

Red Slate, you're looking rather handsome...perhaps you'll be next...

Gear:
- Thermal next-to-skin long sleeve base layer
- OR ferrosi hoody
- Mountain hardware synthetic puffy
- Mammut softshell pants
- Dynafit TLT5 boots
- Dynafit vertical bindings
- Dynafit Stoke Skis
- BD Ascension Skins
- BD Agent Pack
- Camp Al Crampons [not needed]
- 1 whippet
- La Sportiva Boulder X approach shoes

Nutrition
- 2x gu chomps cranberry apple [3.5/5 stars]
- Dark Chocolate Dreams sammy
- 125g of frito/jalapeno cheese puff salty crunchy deliciousness combo
- 1.5L water